1Why go north?
About 80% of Iceland's visitors never leave the southwest corner: the Golden Circle, the South Coast, Reykjavík. The country's top quarter — the ring from Borgarnes around to Akureyri and back via the east-coast road — has the same waterfalls, the same lava fields, the same otherworldly landscapes, with about a tenth of the people. Plus, the midnight sun in June and the aurora in February make the north the only part of Iceland that offers a real sky show.
2The 5-day loop at a glance
| Day | Drive | Where |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 3.5h / 290 km | Reykjavík → Borgarnes → Akureyri (via inland route) |
| 2 | 1h / 90 km | Akureyri → Goðafoss → Mývatn |
| 3 | 2h / 140 km | Mývatn (geothermal loop) → Húsavík |
| 4 | 2h / 150 km | Húsavík → Dettifoss → Egilsstaðir |
| 5 | 5h / 380 km | Egilsstaðir → Reykjavík (via south coast) |
3Day 1 — Into the north
Skip the slow coastal Route 1 on this first leg and take the inland Route 35 (Kjölur) — a 200-km gravel road that crosses the Icelandic highlands between two glaciers. A 4×4 is required (most rental cars explicitly forbid it otherwise). Highlights:
- Hvítárnes — photogenic viewpoint at the Kjölur junction.
- Kerlingarfjöll — rhyolite mountain range with steaming vents and hot springs you can bathe in (free, no facilities — bring a towel).
- Hveravellir — a geothermal oasis with a natural hot pool at the hut. About 1,200 ISK to use.
Push on to Akureyri for the night (300 km from Reykjavík total). Akureyri is Iceland's "second city" with 19,000 people — a tidy fjord town with excellent restaurants, a famous red heart-shaped traffic light, and a botanical garden that grows palms thanks to a microclimate.
4Day 2 — Goðafoss & Mývatn
Morning in Akureyri: walk the fjord-side church (Akureyrarkirkja), have a coffee at Bláa Kannan, then drive 50 minutes east to Goðafoss — the "Waterfall of the Gods," 30 metres wide and 12 metres high, on the Skjálfandafljót river. There's a free parking area on both sides of the river; the east side has the better angle.
From Goðafoss it's 50 minutes further to Mývatn, a lake surrounded by pseudocraters, lava formations, and the most surreal landscape in Iceland. Don't miss:
- Hverir — a geothermal field of boiling mud pots and fumaroles, 5 minutes off the main road. Free. The smell (sulphur) is intense.
- Dimmuborgir — a lava field of twisted rock formations. The 2.5-km "church circle" walk is the highlight.
- Grjótagjá — a lava cave with a thermal spring (no bathing allowed any more, but still very atmospheric — the GoT filming location).
- Mývatn Nature Baths — the cheaper, less-crowded alternative to the Blue Lagoon. 6,900 ISK. Cyan-blue water, infinity edge, surrounded by lava fields.
5Day 3 — Whale-watching in Húsavík
Drive 50 minutes north-east to Húsavík, the whale-watching capital of Europe. Minke, humpback, and (with luck) blue whales are seen on 95%+ of tours from April to October. Book a 3-hour tour with North Sailing (12,900 ISK) — they use the only hybrid-electric whale boats in the world, and the wooden schooner is half the experience.
Húsavík is also a great lunch stop: try Salka Restaurant for a smoked Arctic char flatbread, or Naustið for a proper Icelandic fish stew (plokkfiskur).
6Day 4 — Dettifoss & the east
Drive back via Jökulsárgljúfur (part of Vatnajökull National Park). The headline act is Dettifoss, Europe's most powerful waterfall, 100 metres wide and 44 metres deep — 200 m³ of water per second. Park at the west-side car park (newer, paved) and walk 10 minutes to the viewing platform.
Continue east to Egilsstaðir, the only real town in Iceland's east, for the night. It's small but functional; eat at Salt Café and stay at Hótel Eyvindará (forest setting, €130/night with breakfast).
7Day 5 — The south coast, faster
The drive back to Reykjavík is 380 km, 5 hours on the coastal route. Two worthwhile stops if you have time:
- Höfn — the langoustine (Nephrops norvegicus) capital. Lunch at Pakkhus is non-negotiable.
- Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon — icebergs calving off the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier, floating toward the Atlantic. Adjacent Diamond Beach has ice chunks scattered on black sand. Crowded, but worth it.
8Best season
| Season | What you get | What you trade off |
|---|---|---|
| June – August | long summer daylight, with road conditions to check, 18+ hours of usable daylight, puffins in Látrabjarg | Peak prices, no aurora, mosquitoes at Mývatn |
| September – October | Fewer tourists, northern lights begin, autumn colours | Some F-roads closed, shorter days |
| February – March | Best aurora (10+ hours of darkness), ice caves, fewer tourists | Cold (-10 °C), some roads closed, limited daylight |
My pick: late September. Daylight still long enough to drive, aurora starts in earnest, most F-roads (mountain tracks) are still open, and accommodation is 30% cheaper than August.
9Cost reality check
Iceland is not cheap. A 5-day self-drive trip in shoulder season, two sharing, runs about €1,500–2,000 all-in (€1,000–1,300 in winter):
- 4×4 rental: €80–110/day
- Fuel: €25–35/day (Iceland is expensive)
- Accommodation (mid-range): €130–200/night double
- Food: €40–60/person/day if you mix restaurants and supermarket runs
- Whale-watching: €85/person
- Mývatn Nature Baths: €45
10Hidden detours
- Aldeyjarfoss — basalt-column waterfall 30 minutes off Route 1, north of Akureyri. Often missed. 4×4 only.
- Grímsey Island — straddles the Arctic Circle at 66°33'N. Reachable by a ~3.5-hour ferry from Dalvík (40 km north of Akureyri) or a 25-minute flight from Akureyri. Café, puffin colony, and a "you are here" marker on the Arctic Circle.
- Mánárbakki — black-sand beach in the east, often empty. Combine with Hvalnes for a half-day loop.
- Vestmannaeyjar (Westman Islands) — 30-minute ferry from Landeyjahöfn. Volcanic island with 8 million puffins, a 1973 lava flow you can walk through, and the world's only "pomato" — a potato-tomato hybrid.
If you're here in February, download the My Aurora Forecast app and the Vedur (Icelandic Met Office) cloud-cover map. KP index 3+ plus clear skies = good chance. Best viewing spots near Akureyri: Fnjóskadalur (30 minutes east of town, no light pollution) or the lake at Mývatn (combine with the baths — you leave at 23:00, see the aurora, sleep). Tours from Akureyri run €60–80; most have photo tripods you can borrow.
Local experiences
📜 Festivals: the Reykjavik Pride and the Winter Lights
Reykjavik Pride (August, the whole city becomes a parade, 100,000 people in a country of 380,000) is the most disproportionate party on Earth. The Winter Lights Festival (February, the dark-month celebration) is the light show in the long night.
🍜 Food: the hot dog and the skyr
The pylsur (the Icelandic hot dog with the lamb-pork-beef blend, the sweet mustard, the raw onion, the crispy onion) is the national dish. ³ ISK 600 (£4-5), the Bêejarins Beztu hot dog stand in Reykjavik is the right place. Skyr (the Icelandic yogurt, thick, high-protein, 1,000-year-old tradition) is the daily breakfast.
🏟e Customs: the swimming pool culture
Iceland has 200+ public swimming pools, fed by the geothermal water, the social centres of every town. The right way to use them: shower naked first (the Icelandic rule), then enjoy the hot pots (38°C-44°C), the steam bath, and the cold plunge. The Jökulhlaup (glacier flood) is the cold shower they’ll jokingly direct you to.
11Is Iceland solo-friendly?
Safety varies by neighbourhood, activity and current conditions. Check destination-specific travel advice and plan transport and accommodation carefully. Solo self-drive is very normal. The catch is the cost: single rooms add 50–80% to your nightly accommodation. Stay in farm-stay B&Bs (look for gistiheimili on Booking) — cheaper and warmer than hotels. Read more in our solo travel guide.
Frequently asked questions
1When is the best time to visit Iceland North Circle?
The sweet spot for Iceland North Circle is Jun–Aug · Feb (aurora). The When to go section above breaks down every season, including the months to avoid.
2How many days should I spend in Iceland North Circle?
The itinerary above runs over 5 days. That covers the main highlights at a comfortable pace; add 2–3 extra days if you want to linger, travel slower, or include the hidden detours listed at the end of the guide.
3How much should I budget per day for Iceland North Circle?
The illustrative daily budget for Iceland North Circle is in the mid-range bracket for the destination. The Daily budget table in this guide gives a full item-by-item breakdown, from hostels to splurges.
4Is Iceland North Circle safe for tourists?
Iceland North Circle is generally safe for travellers who take the usual precautions — keep valuables out of sight, avoid empty streets late at night, and use licensed transport. The guide covers any destination-specific safety notes in the sections above.
5Do I need to speak the local language in Iceland North Circle?
Language support varies by location and operator. Save addresses in the local language and an offline translation tool; do not assume English assistance is always available. Learning a handful of local phrases will still get you a warmer reception everywhere.