Istanbul: Bosphorus, Bazaars & Byzantine

1Why Istanbul?

Istanbul is the only city in the world that sits on two continents — the Bosphorus separates Europe from Asia, and the 15-million-strong city spreads across both banks. It’s also the only city that was capital of three empires (Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman), and the buildings show it: the Hagia Sophia was the world’s largest cathedral for 1,000 years, the Blue Mosque is one of the world’s great religious buildings, and the Topkapi Palace was the seat of the sultans for 400 years. Seven days is the minimum to do it justice.

2The recommended itinerary

3Sultanahmet — the old city

The historic peninsula between the Golden Horn and the Sea of Marmara is where every visitor should base their first three nights. Three blocks contain the world’s most concentrated density of UNESCO sites: the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, the Basilica Cistern, the Hippodrome, and the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts.

Hagia Sophia without the crowds

Pre-book online (€25, free for kids). Open 9 am, but the queue is short at 9 am and brutal from 11 am to 3 pm. Inside, look up — the 9th-century dome is 31m across and was the largest in the world for 500 years. The Christian mosaics are in the upstairs gallery (separate entrance, €10 extra).

4The Blue Mosque

Built 1609-1616, the Sultan Ahmed Mosque (the Blue Mosque) sits opposite the Hagia Sophia across the small park. Free admission. The 20,000 hand-painted blue Iznik tiles are the reason for the name. The mosque is still an active place of worship, so dress modestly (no shorts, women must cover hair — scarves available at the door), and visit outside the five daily prayer times (6 am, 1 pm, 4 pm, 6 pm, 9 pm).

5Topkapi Palace & Harem

The 15th-century palace of the Ottoman sultans, on the tip of the historic peninsula. Topkapi Palace (€30, audioguide included) is the Treasury, the Harem, and the four courtyards of Ottoman power. The 86-carat Spoonmaker’s Diamond in the Treasury is the heaviest diamond in the world. The Harem (€15 extra) is where the sultan’s wives and concubines lived — worth the extra ticket.

6The Grand Bazaar & Spice Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar is the largest covered market in the world — 4,000 shops across 61 streets, dating to 1461. The carpet dealers and leather sellers in the inner core are more honest than the tourist tat in the outer ring. Walk in from the Beyazit Gate, get lost, and bargain — the asking price is always 2–3x the final price. The Spice Bazaar (Egyption Bazaar) is smaller, more focused, across the Galata Bridge in Eminonu.

7Bosphorus & Dolmabahce

Take the public ferry (€15, 90 min) from Eminonu up the Bosphorus to Anadolu Kavagi at the Black Sea entrance. The ferry passes the Dolmabahce Palace, the Rumeli Fortress, the Bosphorus bridges, and the yalis (waterfront Ottoman mansions). Eat a fish sandwich on board. Dolmabahce Palace (€30, the 19th-century palace the sultans moved to when Topkapi felt old) has the world’s largest chandelier (6.5 tonnes) in the Ceremonial Hall.

8Beyoglu: the modern half

Across the Galata Bridge from the historic peninsula, Beyoglu is the modern European Istanbul: Istiklal Avenue (the 1.4 km pedestrian street with the red tram), Taksim Square, and the nightlife districts of Galata and Karakoy. Eat at Karakoy Lokantasi (the modern Turkish meyhane), drink at Dem Karakoy (the raki bar), and stay at Bank Hotel (€150–250/night, restored 19th-century bank in Karakoy).

9When to go

Istanbul has two distinct windows:

• April – May: 15–22°C, tulips in the parks, the Bosphorus is calm. The sweet spot.
• September – October: 20–26°C, the summer heat breaks, the queues drop. Equally good.
• December – February: winter, 3–8°C, occasional snow on the Bosphorus, the cheapest time.
• June – August: 30–35°C, humid, the mosques are hot. Skip.

Avoid Ramadan if you don’t want daytime closures of restaurants.

10Getting around

From the airport: the Havaist airport bus (€5) is faster and cheaper than a taxi (€30–40). Within the city: the Istanbulkart is essential — buy at any metro station (€10 + value). It works on the tram, metro, ferry, and bus. Between continents: the Marmaray metro runs under the Bosphorus (€5 with the Istanbulkart, 8 min from Karakoy to Uskudar).

11Daily budget

Istanbul is one of the best-value cities in Europe.

Build a budget using the dedicated budget guide. Its amounts are illustrative allowances; obtain current quotes in the local currency for your dates.

12Hidden detours

• Chora Church (Kariye Mosque): the 14th-century Byzantine mosaic masterpiece in the Edirnekapi neighbourhood, the most beautiful mosaics in Istanbul and almost never crowded.
• Princes’ Islands: ferry from Kabatas (€8, 90 min), no cars, hire a bicycle, eat fish on the waterfront.
• Bursa day trip: 2h ferry south, the first Ottoman capital, the ülkdag cable car is worth the day.

13Solo in Istanbul

Istanbul is one of the most rewarding solo destinations in the world. The Bosphorus ferry at sunset is a single-traveller ritual — half the people on board are alone with their tea. The Grand Bazaar is also solo-friendly (don’t be the tourist who gets lost in a carpet stall with a 90-minute sales pitch). Avoid the tourist-trap restaurants near Sultanahmet Square — the ones behind the Galata Bridge in Karakoy are honest, cheap, and full of locals. Read more in our solo travel guide.

14The Asian side

90% of tourists stay on the European side. The 10% who cross the Bosphorus to Kadikoy and Uskudar find the food is better, the rent is lower, and the locals are visibly happier to see you. The ferry from Eminonu or Karakoy takes 20 minutes. Ciya Sofrasi in Kadikoy is one of the best restaurants in Turkey, the Anatolian specialties are unlike anything on the European side, and the bill is half what you’d pay in Sultanahmet.