Split: Diocletian’s Palace, Islands & Dalmatian Coast

1Why Split?

Split is the city most other Mediterranean ports used to be — the Roman Emperor Diocletian built his retirement palace here in 305 AD, and 1,700 years later people still live in the palace walls. The result is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that is also a functioning neighbourhood: apartments, restaurants, a vegetable market, and a cathedral, all inside the 4th-century walls. Add the islands (Hvar is 1 hour by ferry), the Krka waterfalls (1 hour by bus), and the Dalmatian seafood, and Split is the most over-stuffed 2,000-year-old port in the Mediterranean.

2The recommended itinerary

3Diocletian’s Palace — 1,700 years of living history

The Roman Emperor Diocletian built his retirement palace here in 305 AD, the oldest inhabited UNESCO World Heritage Site in the Mediterranean. 1,700 years of people living inside the walls means the palace is not a museum — it’s a working city block. Apartments, restaurants, a vegetable market, a cathedral, and 3,000 residents, all inside the same Roman walls.

What to see inside

The Peristyle (the central courtyard where Diocletian was greeted, the 3,000-year-old Egyptian sphinx at the entrance is a must-see), the Cathedral of St Domnius (the oldest Catholic cathedral still in use, the bell tower has the best view of Split, €8), the underground halls (€8, the 1,700-year-old Roman service corridors under the palace), and the Temple of Jupiter (the small 4th-century temple, free with the Peristyle ticket).

4The Riva and the markets

The Riva is the palm-tree lined waterfront promenade in front of the palace — 200 metres of cafes, restaurants, and benches. The morning is for the Pazar (Green Market) just outside the palace walls — the locals buy their tomatoes, olive oil, and lavender honey here. The Fish Market (Peškarija) next door is the morning spectacle: the small Adriatic fishing boats tie up at 6 am and the auction is at 7.

5Marjan Hill — the Split lungs

The 178m hill on the Split peninsula is the city’s central park, the locals call it the ‘lungs of Split’. Three hours of marked trails through pine forest, ruined chapels, and the best sunset viewpoint in Dalmatia. Free, walkable from the centre, the right way to spend a slow morning.

6Krka waterfalls — the day trip

1 hour by bus from Split, the Krka National Park is a series of seven travertine waterfalls on the Krka River, the most accessible and most beautiful in Croatia. Skradinski Buk is the big one — a 17-step cascade 800m wide. Entry €10-30, ferry across the lake included. Avoid July–August (the swimming ban plus 40,000 daily visitors); May, June, September are perfect.

7Hvar — the island the world discovered

1 hour by ferry from Split, the island of Hvar is the lavender-scented, sun-drenched, 14th-century Venetian port that Croatia’s tourism industry was built on. The Hvar town waterfront is the Instagram-bait. The Paklinski Islands (a small archipelago 20 minutes by boat) is the real Hvar — 12 small islands, most uninhabited, the water is 25°C in September. Stay 1 night minimum.

8When to go

Split has three clear windows:

• May – June: 18–26°C, the lavender is in bloom, the cruise ships are 50% (not 100%) of August, the swimming is warm.
• September: 22–28°C, the sea is at its warmest (25°C), the crowds thin after the 5th, the food is at its peak.
• July – August: 28–36°C, the cruise ships are at their worst (10,000 passengers a day, the Riva is unrecognisable by 10 am). Avoid.
• October – April: winter, 5–15°C, the cheapest time, the ferries are reduced, the islands close restaurants.

9Getting around

Walking: Diocletian’s Palace is walkable end to end in 20 minutes. Bus (Promet Split): the local network, €1.50 per ride. Catamaran to Hvar: 1 hour from Split ferry port (€8–14). Car: useful for Krka day trip, parking in the old town is impossible — leave the car at the ferry terminal.

10Daily budget

Split is one of the best-value Mediterranean cities in summer.

Build a budget using the dedicated budget guide. Its amounts are illustrative allowances; obtain current quotes in the local currency for your dates.

11Hidden detours

• Trogir: the 30-minute bus ride to the island-town of Trogir is the second UNESCO site on Split’s doorstep. The cathedral, the Venetian walls, the 15th-century pirate courtyard. Stay 2 hours minimum.
• Šolta island: the 45-minute ferry from Split, the other (less touristy) Dalmatian island. The Maslinica fishing village on the western end is the right way to spend a slow day.
• Konoba Šopa in the palace alleys: the 12-table family-run konoba, the best peka (octopus slow-cooked under the iron bell) in Split, 7 pm opening, the line is worth it.

12The Split reality

Most tourists come to Split on a cruise ship, walk the palace in 2 hours, and sail out. The city that 1,700 years of continuous inhabitation built is invisible to the day-tripper. The 7 days above is the right pace: 4 nights in Split for the palace, the Riva, Marjan, Krka, and 2–3 nights on Hvar for the island and the Paklinski archipelago. Add 2 days and you’ll see Trogir and Šolta; add 4 and you’ll understand why the Roman Emperor Diocletian chose this exact spot for his retirement.